How to use AHAs, BHAs, and retinol in your daily skincare routine

Your bathroom cabinet probably has at least one product with AHA, BHA, or retinol stamped on the label. They might sound scientific and complex, but knowing how to use them can make a real difference to how your skin looks and behaves.

Because these are potent, active ingredients, it’s easy to use too much too quickly or combine them in concentrations that your skin can’t tolerate.

Luckily, there’s a balanced middle ground that lets you harness one, two, or all three actives in a way that works for your skin type.

Read on to learn how active skincare ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, and retinol work, how to use them, and whether they’re right for your routine.

What are AHAs, BHAs, and retinol?

They’re the active ingredients commonly used in skincare products to exfoliate the skin or support healthy cell turnover. When we talk about “active” ingredients, we mean the main compounds that do all the work.

In a nutshell, AHAs help remove dead cells from the surface of the skin, BHAs work within the pores to clear away buildup, and retinol supports the skin’s natural renewal process.

AHAs and BHAs

AHAs and BHAs are types of hydroxy acids that act as chemical exfoliants for the skin. They’re usually found in cleansers, toners, moisturisers, scrubs, peels, or masks.

AHA stands for ‘alpha-hydroxy acid’ and includes glycolic, citric, mandelic, and lactic acid. AHAs are usually derived from sugary fruits or other natural sources.

BHA stands for ‘beta-hydroxy acid’. The BHA most commonly used in skincare is salicylic acid. BHAs can also be in the form of willow bark extract, tropic acid, or sodium salicylate.

Retinol

Retinol is a form of natural or synthetic vitamin A. Vitamin A is an antioxidant often found in over-the-counter or prescription serums or creams. It’s designed to support cell turnover in the deeper layers of the skin. This can help refine the appearance of uneven tone, congestion, and fine lines over time.

Choosing the right actives for your skin type

You can use two or more of these active ingredients together. The trick is knowing when and how to apply them so they don’t cancel each other out.

But, before you load up your shopping cart with all the actives, it helps to understand how different ingredients tend to behave on different skin types.

Dry skin

AHAs like lactic or mandelic acid are commonly used in dry-skin routines because they have humectant properties. This means they attract moisture to the skin’s surface while also providing surface exfoliation.

Sensitive or reactive skin

Sensitive or reactive skin can respond unpredictably to new products, whether it’s an acid or retinol. Many people start with milder formulas and introduce new actives gradually to see how their skin responds. Patch testing one product at a time can help you understand your tolerance.

Oily or acne-prone skin

A BHA like salicylic acid is often included in oily or breakout-prone routines because it can work within the pores to help loosen excess oil and buildup. Sometimes, retinol can be introduced in the evening to support more balanced skin over time.

Mature skin

For maturing skin, AHAs and retinol are often used together: AHAs for targeting surface refinement, and retinol to support gradual cell turnover at deeper levels of the skin.

Combination skin

If your skin generally tolerates products well, you may be able to use all three actives. Many people use a BHA for occasional congestion, AHAs for a general surface refresh, and retinol for overall skin renewal.

For a personalised skincare assessment to identify your skin type, book a consultation with one of our qualified dermal clinicians.

How to layer active ingredients

Layering active ingredients is about applying them in a way that keeps your routine balanced. Some ingredients work well at the same time, while others are better separated so your skin has time to adjust.

Below is a general guide on morning vs evening use, and spacing out AHAs, BHAs and retinol in an everyday routine.

Morning vs evening application

Some active ingredients are used at certain times of day because of how they interact with light or other products. Retinol, for example, is generally applied in the evening because it can break down in sunlight.

Hydroxy acids, on the other hand, are a little more flexible. BHAs can be used in either your morning or evening routine, while AHAs are often applied at night. This is because they can increase sun sensitivity.

No matter when you apply them, daily sunscreen is essential when using exfoliating acids or retinol, as these ingredients can leave the skin more vulnerable to UV exposure.

Here’s an example of a simple day and night routine:

Skin cycling schedules

Skin cycling means alternating active ingredients on different nights with rest days in between. Instead of using everything every night, the routine cycles through actives and includes dedicated recovery periods.

The aim is simply to give the skin intervals between actives and avoid overloading the skin barrier. Below is an example of how a skin cycling pattern may be structured:

A closer look at active skincare products

Here are a few examples of how AHAs, BHAs, and retinol show up in professional-grade skincare formulas. If you need help choosing what’s right for your skin, you’re welcome to book a consultation.

When at-home actives aren’t enough

Some exfoliating acids used in everyday skincare also exist in higher concentrations within in-clinic chemical peels. These professional treatments use similar ingredient families, such as glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acids. But at strengths designed for controlled use by trained dermal clinicians.

• Superficial peels use low-strength hydroxy acids to refine the outer layers of the skin. Depending on the formulation, they may help manage congestion, surface dullness, or mild tone variation.

During a consultation, a dermal clinician will assess your skin and help determine if a chemical peel is suitable for you.

Book a skin consultation with Victorian Dermal Group

If you’re exploring AHAs, BHAs, or retinol and want professional guidance, our dermal clinicians can help you understand how these ingredients fit into your overall skin routine. We can assess your skin during a consultation and recommend an approach tailored to your skin’s needs. Book a consultation today.

Using skin actives: FAQs

Can you mix AHA and BHA with retinol?

AHAs, BHAs, and retinol all influence the skin in different ways.

• AHAs exfoliate at the surface.
• BHAs work within the pores.
• Retinol supports cell turnover.

Because they each stimulate activity in the skin, applying them at separate times can reduce the chance of irritation. Many routines separate exfoliating acids and retinol by using them at different times of day or on alternate nights, so the skin has time to adjust.

Can you use glycolic acid with retinol?

Glycolic acid (an AHA) loosens dead skin cells on the surface, while retinol works at a deeper level. Using both in the same application can be too stimulating for some skin types.

Spacing them out helps maintain the skin barrier and reduces the risk of irritation. No matter when glycolic acid is used, daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is important, as AHAs can increase UV sensitivity.

Can you use an AHA every day?

How often an AHA can be used depends on the type of acid, its concentration, and how your skin responds. AHAs exfoliate surface cells, so using them too frequently may contribute to sensitivity, particularly with higher-strength formulas.

Some formulations are designed for frequent use, while others are intended for less regular application. If you’d like personalised advice on how AHAs fit into your skincare, our dermal clinicians can guide you through your options during a consultation.